See the Angels & Demons locations with a licensed guide
Small-group walking tour of the Path of Illumination, max 8 guests, with St Peter’s Square as the “Air” stop.
St Peter’s Square is the most famous square of Vatican City, and in Angels and Demons it is the place of the second altar of science, “Air”. Robert Langdon looks for a marble relief of the west wind, the “West Ponente”, hidden in plain sight among thousands of pilgrims. Here is where to find it, what is real and what is fiction, and how to visit the square.
Quick answer: the “West Ponente” is one of the marble wind discs set in the paving around the obelisk in the centre of St Peter’s Square. In the novel it marks the “Air” altar of the Path of Illumination. The square is free to enter, but parts of it can be closed during papal events.
Bernini’s square and the obelisk
The square in front of St Peter’s Basilica was designed by Gian Lorenzo Bernini, who built its great colonnade between 1656 and 1667. The two curved arms of columns were meant to welcome visitors like open arms.
In the centre stands an ancient Egyptian obelisk, brought to Rome by Emperor Caligula for his circus. In 1586 Pope Sixtus V had it moved to its current position by the architect Domenico Fontana.
The wind discs: where to find the West Ponente
Around the obelisk, set in the paving, there are sixteen marble discs. Each marks a direction and the name of the wind that blows from it, like a compass rose drawn on the ground. The Ponente disc marks the west wind.
- Start from the obelisk in the centre of the square and walk around it, looking down at the paving.
- Read the names carved on the discs: Tramontana, Levante, Ponente and the other Italian names of the winds.
Follow the real Illuminati path with a licensed guide
Angels & Demons small-group walking tour: 3 hours, max 8 guests, free cancellation up to 24 hours before.
St Peter’s Square in Angels and Demons
The second clue of the Path of Illumination leads Langdon to St Peter’s Square, the “Air” altar. In the story the West Ponente relief is described as a work by Bernini, and it points the way to the next altar. In reality the wind discs around the obelisk were added long after Bernini’s death, so this is one of the places where Dan Brown mixes real art with fiction.
What is real is Bernini’s presence everywhere around you: the colonnade and the overall design of the square are his. Read the full route in our guide to the real Illuminati path in Rome.
The four altars of science
| Place | Role in the novel |
|---|---|
| Santa Maria del Popolo | Earth: the Chigi Chapel designed by Raphael |
| St Peter’s Square | Air: the “West Ponente” relief (this guide) |
| Santa Maria della Vittoria | Fire: Bernini’s Ecstasy of Saint Teresa |
| Piazza Navona | Water: the Fountain of the Four Rivers |
Walk the whole story with a local guide
Our 3-hour Angels & Demons small-group tour visits the real places of the novel, including St Peter’s Square, the “Air” altar of the story. Free cancellation up to 24 hours before.
Practical tips for visiting St Peter’s Square
- Entry: the square is free and open to everyone. Entry to St Peter’s Basilica is also free, with a security check.
- Papal events: parts of the square can be closed during the Wednesday General Audience and the Sunday Angelus at noon. If you want to see the wind discs calmly, avoid those times.
- Dress code: for the basilica, cover shoulders and knees.
- Best time: early morning or late afternoon is usually calmer than the middle of the day.
- Combine it: from St Peter’s Square it is a short walk to Castel Sant’Angelo and the Tiber.
More ideas for your trip
Visiting Rome in December? Join our Christmas walking tour of Rome to see the city’s lights and decorations. Arriving by cruise ship? Book a private transfer from Civitavecchia to Rome (about 60 to 75 minutes to the city centre). And if you have an extra day, consider our Venice day trip from Rome by high-speed train. Also read our guides to the Pantheon and Raphael’s tomb and Bernini’s Ecstasy of Saint Teresa.
Frequently asked questions
Where is the West Ponente relief in St Peter’s Square?
It is one of the marble wind discs set in the paving around the obelisk in the centre of St Peter’s Square. Each disc marks a direction and the name of its wind; the Ponente disc marks the west wind.
Is the West Ponente relief really by Bernini?
No. In Angels and Demons the relief is presented as a work by Bernini, but the wind discs around the obelisk were added long after his death. Bernini did design the colonnade that surrounds the square.
Is St Peter’s Square in Angels and Demons?
Yes. It is the “Air” altar of the Path of Illumination, the second of the four altars of science, where Robert Langdon follows the clue to the West Ponente relief.
Do you need a ticket for St Peter’s Square?
No. The square is free to enter. Parts of it can be closed during papal events, such as the Wednesday General Audience or the Sunday Angelus at noon.
Does the Angels and Demons tour stop at St Peter’s Square?
Yes. St Peter’s Square is the “Air” stop of our Angels and Demons tour: your licensed guide shows you Bernini’s colonnade, the obelisk and the West Ponente wind relief, and explains what comes from the novel and what from history.